Sean Corbett photo

The week-long rum-marinated Chuleta de Cerdo con Tamal de Maiz

Brasitas
430 Main Ave., Norwalk (203) 354-7329, www.brasitas.com

If you're seeking respite from the frigid winter, consider an evening at the warm, lively, tropically-infused Latin American Brasitas restaurant in Norwalk.

While retaining the menu, vivid colors, family-run charm and inspired menu of the original and perpetually packed Stamford location, the new Brasitas at 430 Main Avenue, across from the Merrit 7 complex, is decidedly larger, with a 25-seat bar, a private room in back and 55 dining room seats from which to savor the hearty flavors of Cuba, Spain, the Caribbean, Colombia and Peru.

Owner Jaime Guerrero and his chef Juan Parra strive for "a perfect balance" of flavors in each dish and, based on a recent visit, their footing is as solid as ever.

Each meal at Brasitas begins with an addictive bowl of warm, ultra-crispy, lightly-salted plantain chips served with a homemade, tangy pico de gallo. Our tasting of items from both the lunch and dinner menus began with a crab cake (Torta de Cangrejo) served on a bed of arugula. It was browned to a dark gold on the outside and packed inside with moist, shredded crab seasoned with curry and served with a creamy aioli of avocado, coconut, lime and cilantro, finished with a delicate drizzle of basil oil. Served with a navel orange salad tossed with a passion fruit and vanilla vinaigrette, the dish is the perfect representation of Guerrero's theme: crispy, salty, spicy, sweet and velvety soft all at once. In contrast to the hearty crabcake, we were offered a special appetizer: a whispery thin Tiradito de Atun, a kind of Latin version of tuna carpaccio topped with shaved scallions, tiny fresh mango dice, thin-sliced jalapenos and avocados, olive oil and lime juice. The tender, fresh sweetness of the fish and the multi-dimensional accompanying flavors make this simple dish a superstar.

Ceviche Brasitas, the classic Spanish seafood salad with shrimp and calamari marinated in citrus, has a just-off-the-boat freshness that qualifies it as one of the top versions our group has ever sampled.

For a stick-to-your ribs lunch, try the Cubano Media Noche Wrap, the chef's own take on the classic Cuban sandwich. It comes out warm and crunchy, filled with marinated roasted pork, ham, Swiss cheese, pickles, mustard and mojo mayonnaise, and it's complemented by a citrusy hearts of palm salad and a cup of roasted potato wedges. Dip them in the sublimely creamy green aioli of cilantro, coconut milk, mayonaise, mustard and pickles. I dare you not to swoon.

From the dinner menu, the Chuleta de Cerdo con Tamal de Maiz, an enormous dish of two brined pork chops served with a corn tamale, is another winner. The pork is marinated for a full week in a brine of dark rum and molasses and then grilled and served with deep-brown roasted pearl onions and fresh figs, along with the slightly sweet tamale. Sprinkled over the top are fresh corn kernels, raisins and delicate shreds of roasted pork which, as contrast to the chops' sweetness, offer a salty punch. A hint of chili powder provides a subtle spicy bite.

Don't be afraid to look the Pargo Rojo, a Puerto Rican-style marinated crispy red snapper that's served whole, straight in the eyes before you sample its sweet, moist meat. The fish is scored to allow diners to simply pull the delicate chunks of fish off the bone with ease. Curled around a mound of tart watercress, mango and pickled red onion salad, the presentation is a show-stopper.

We cried mercy when desserts were offered, but nonetheless managed to polish off a tasting of four of the creamiest, bursting-with-fruit-flavor sorbets in coconut, mango, raspberry and passion fruit — a perfect palate refresher to end our meal.