Dave Bonan

Baklava from Hanna's

Pao Gostoso
10-12 Main St., Danbury
(Also, 35 White St., Danbury)
Cheesecake, $2

There are a lot of Portuguese bakeries in Danbury, but Pao Gostoso (which means "delicious bread") is the king. The selection constantly changes, and if you want uninterrupted browsing and pondering, come on a weekday, because Sundays are insane as they rush to cater to nearby churches. The cheesecake is quite good, with a subtle richness that maintains the creaminess we all love. Afterwards, my palette was surprisingly clean, yet I still wanted more. The sweetbreads, however, were not to my liking — they are too reminiscent of challah with sugar, which I've eaten all my life at temple.

La Mexicana Bakery
137 White St., Danbury
Assorted pastries, $.69 - $2

La Mexicana Bakery opened two months ago, next to Pancho's Tacos (arguably Danbury's only truly authentic Mexican eatery). The bakery is open from dawn to at least 10 p.m., and the glass cases are full of goodies I've never seen — which was exactly what I was looking for. The abnormally large raisin cookies looked like they weighed a ton, but were light as a feather and bursting with flavor. The sweetbread's icing-like design, which flakes off, looks like a seashell and tastes nutty. The giant chocolate-drizzled doughball is a Mexican twist on a scone and goes well with café (con leche) that's offered gratis with baked goods.

Varano Bakery
198 Greenwood Ave., Bethel
Assorted goods, sold by the pound

Italy is known for exceptional cuisine, and the country's desserts are visual works of art. Most of the delicious-looking morsels at Varano, an eight-year staple of downtown Bethel, seemed standard — creampuffs, Neopolitans, canolis.

I entered to look beyond. My eye was caught by the almond macaroon — that vacuum-packed, multi-flavored Passover treat. These were uncorked and, I must say, spot-on. No surprise there, given that Italian and Jewish mothers have similair nagging rights.

Hanna's Middle Eastern Market and Restaurant
72 Lake Ave., Danbury
Baklava, $1.75

Hanna's has been part of the ever-evolving ethnic eclecticism of Danbury since 1989. A market and an adjoining restaurant, it's even Zagat-rated. The dessert section is limited, with most offerings being imported, but Hanna's does make one treat in-house: baklava. The place does it differently because of the chopped pistachios on top and because the sweetness is not overdone. The filling uses lemon juice, melted sugar with rose water and a combination of nuts for the filling, allowing for a unique and satisfying magic carpet ride.