Sean Corbett photo

Always go with the steak fries

Épernay
272 Fairfield Ave., Bridgeport,
(203) 334-3000, www.epernaybistro.com

Épernay opened just over four months ago on the bubbling Fairfield Avenue strip in downtown Bridgeport and has brought yet another level of charm to this growing little restaurant row.

The French bistro offers a well-executed and authentic bistro experience that starts with the décor and extends to the menu. The only thing missing is a surly French staff. While a few need a bit of additional training — disappearing and distracted bartenders, slightly confused floor staff — all are incredibly gracious and friendly.

One and all are welcomed warmly by manager Barbara Saracena, who is also responsible for creating the little jewel box of a space. To the right is a full-service, eight-seat bar and a lounge-style window-seat area whose tables are flanked by colorful cushions. At the back is the dining room, which beckons with its exposed brick walls, eclectic and colorful art collection and funky-chic chandelier. The concept of remaining true to French style in the middle of Bridgeport, an undertaking that could have gone so very wrong, has flourished in the hands of chef/owner Peter Wroe.

The food delivers as well. Our group sampled several appetizers and entrees, some from the slightly limited but sturdy regular menu, others from the extensive specials list. A heaping bowl of mussels steamed with Andouille sausage, garlic, and scallions is magnificent, each mussel perfectly plump and clean and the garlicky broth offering a spicy zing to finish. Bread was dipped all around, leaving not a single drop of the heady brine. Smoked salmon salad, a pile of lofty bright greens dressed just lightly in an herbed crème fraiche vinaigrette, is draped with lovely thin slices of perfectly-smoked salmon, though a healthy squeeze of lemon or lime added to the dressing would have taken this dish to new heights.

While a cream of potato soup was a bit bland and gritty, the white bean hummus made up for it with its velvety yet light-as-air texture, a subtle backdrop of garlic and lemon, and the warm garlic toasts that accompanied it.

For entrees, the lamb stew was another star. Brightened by a hefty infusion of lemony fresh thyme, the stew was deep and rich, studded with carrots and black olives, the meat perfectly braised. A pan-roasted Mahi Mahi promised brown butter, lemon and capers. The fish was delicately roasted, but here again the sauce lacked the citrus promised and fell a bit short on flavor.

An absolute standout was Chef Wroe's Hatfield pork chop Milanese, served over a mesclun green salad with lemon and parmesan dressing. Every heavenly bite offers a hearty crunch from the seasoned, golden-brown breadcrumb crust, the juicy-beyond-reason pork, light pink inside, and the sharpness of the Caesar-like dressing that rounds out the dish to perfection.

An order of steak frites, a staple of French bistro cuisine, needed to be really great at Éperenay — and it was. A medium-dark char on the outside gave way to the medium-rare pink inside. The meat was well-seasoned, juicy and flavorful, though slightly tepid upon arrival. The fries, neither too thin or thick, were crisped just so on the outside and obviously salted hot. I'd have loved to see a splash of dark green on that plate (sautéed spinach?), for presentation and as contrast to the protein and starch, but if we're staying true to the French bistro style, I suppose the chef got it right.

Desserts we tried included lemon bars with a slightly heavy crust and tooth-achingly sweet raspberry sauce. They missed the mark for us. The almond cake didn't quite make the grade either, succeeding on the level of just-slightly-sweetness, but lacking in the rich nutty flavor we expected.

But then came the saviors: the Pot de Crème, a divine cup of rich, bittersweet chocolate-creamy bliss topped with whipped cream, and the exceptional crème brulèe with its crunchy caramel top and smooth velvety vanilla custard beneath.