Dressing Room
25 Powers Court, Westport. (203) 226-1114,
www.dressingroomhomegrown.com

When I heard the Dressing Room had introduced a more affordable menu, I had to try it. Since this Westport restaurant opened almost three years ago, it’s been impossible not to read or hear the buzz about its admirable mission of serving simply prepared local and sustainable food. But the restaurant was expensive.

The new menu, developed by owner Michel Nischan and executive chef John Holzwarth, is composed of an intriguing selection of “small bites” and “medium bites” (and a couple regular-sized entrees, like meat loaf ($28), chicken pot pie ($25) and “the sustainable market special”). Even more appealing, the dishes range from $5 to $18.

The explanation-filled menu is written in that folksy, exclamation-laden style used in the marketing of Newman’s Own products. (The late Paul Newman was a co-owner of the restaurant. His daughter Nell, who runs Newman’s Own Organics, brought the men together.)

The décor is as straightforward as the food. The Dressing Room is housed in the old Player’s Tavern, a club fondly remembered by those of us who have been around Westport longer than we care to admit. It’s a big barn of a place next to the Westport Country Playhouse. Posters from WCP decorate the wood walls. Hand-hewn beams stretch across the plaster ceiling. The room is spare and attractive and, for me, evocative, not only of seeing Muddy Waters play but also, years later, of seeing Paul Newman, Joanne Woodward and their daughters eating dinner.

Our waiter suggested ordering three plates per person. I would suggest ordering four — even five — depending on how hungry you are, and how many people you are sharing the dishes with.

From the “medium” bites menu, the Heritage Pork Shoulder ($15) was the hit. The meat was braised, then seared. It was a soft, rich chunk of meat, topped with pickled baby onions.

The preparation of roasted local beets with fava beans ($9) was simplicity itself, tossed with olive oil and squirted with lemon.

The vegetable and spring pea lasagna ($12) was another winning little dish. Delicate house-made pasta was layered with slow-baked eggplant, zucchini and tomatoes and mushroom duxelle. The sauce was created from pureed peas and cream.
The Massachusetts divers scallops with roasted beets ($15) contained two tender caramelized scallops. They were sliced horizontally in half and rested on a bed of beets. The dish was flecked with fresh chervil, parsley and tarragon.

The potato gnocchi dumplings that came with spoonfuls of braised duck ($17) were delightfully light. A rich and tangy sauce enrobed the duck — but there was so little duck, it was difficult to experience it.

Grilled organic Florida eggplant, served with garlic chips, consisted of three halves of fig-sized white eggplants, topped with bread crumbs ($6).

We were intrigued by the “small bite” of strawberry and rhubarb slaw. And, at $5, it was the least expensive dish. A handful of julliened napa cabbage, dressed in a well-seasoned Riesling vinaigrette, was tossed with three slices of strawberries and about five thin coins of rhubarb. Perhaps there is usually more strawberry and rhubarb in the dish — on our visit, the waiter told us they were running out of the strawberries.

Snap peas and bean sauté in “artisan butter” ($9) was topped with gratinéed breadcrumbs. The beans were thick and a tad tough.

The “kettle” macaroni and cheese was not baked in a kettle. It was made to order, the penne pasta draped with sauce before being warmed. This doesn’t allow the sauce to absorb into the pasta. The sauce, made from cream from Trinity Dairy and farmstead cheddar, was lukewarm and the pasta was gummy.

The Dressing Room’s young waitstaff could be more professional. I also wish the restaurant left the bottle of wine at the table, rather than whisking it away and returning to refill glasses.

Most of the food was fresh, well prepared and tasty, and local and sustainable. I only wished I had ordered more.