Wendy Logan photo

Shrimp and collard greens

A Taste of Charleston
195 Liberty Square, Norwalk. (203) 810-4075

A Taste of Charleston was launched just weeks ago in an unassuming location just over the bridge from SoNo, and its menu of southern staples is already attracting a crowd. Still a work in progress, the eatery has the potential to be a major hit.

The décor is simple, the trio of owners are bright and friendly, the prices won't break the bank and the food is sinfully compelling. We're talking fried, pulled, battered and smothered in gravy — just like they do it down South.

We dived right into a "Charleston Trio" of wings, shrimp and hush puppies with ranch dipping sauce. Of the three, the Cajun spiced baby shrimp stood out. Golden-fried and tossed lightly with garlic butter, the dish was enlivened by a smattering of pickled banana peppers and cherry peppers, which offered a tangy heat. The corn-bready hush puppies, just a little under-seasoned, were somehow light, despite their deep-fried preparation, the ranch dressing serving as counterpoint to the sweet cornmeal. The chicken wings here are seasoned presumably with the same Cajun spices as the shrimp, then battered and fried. They were a bit salty and dry. No matter. The fried green tomatoes were absolutely stellar, coated with a light-as-can-be batter that offered just a little crunch. I could happily make an entire lunch out of them.

While our eyes were drawn to down-home sandwiches (like BBQ pulled pork and coleslaw on ciabatta bread, or a grilled Andouille sausage on a hoagie with onion and apple relish), we decided to head straight for the big boys. We asked for a tasting of some house favorites and out came the best piece of fried chicken I've eaten since my Virginia-born stepmother first brought her recipe to the table. The batter was well-seasoned, not too thick and not the least bit greasy. Offering just the right crunch, the breast meat beneath was juicy and tender. Did I mention the silky white gravy that draped it?

Next, we tried shrimp and grits, a bargain at $16.95. Several large, plump, perfectly cooked shrimp were nested on a bed of grits that were at once creamy and grainy. There was a lot going on with the dish — scallions, bacon, garlic, a touch of lemon, a drizzle of brown gravy and the requisite Cajun spice — perhaps just a touch too much, resulting in an overly salty mouthful. The twin pork chops, also smothered in the black pepper–flecked white gravy that adorned our chicken, were thinner than expected, and I would've preferred them slightly less well-done. Still, the added bonus of a dollop of chunky sausage and cornbread stuffing perched on top ensured that we polished them off.

We had high hopes for the baked macaroni and cheese but were disappointed in its texture, which lacked the smooth and gooey consistency we coveted as well as the browned and lightly crunchy top of the classic.

No matter what you order at A Taste of Charleston, you'd be remiss not to try a side of collard greens. The chopped and tangy greens, which hold up so well to cooking, came out with a deep, smoky flavor that we first mistook for ham hocks. The chef corrected us. The flecks of shredded meat were, in fact, smoked turkey.

About half of the desserts are house-made, including banana pudding, a seasonal cobbler (peach, at the time of our visit), and our choice, Peggy's Dolly Bars. The recipe was created by co-owner Catherine Leckie's grandmother, and once you try it, you'll be thankful for the legacy. The basic ingredients — graham crackers, butter, chocolate chips and condensed milk — are baked and then served warm in a hefty glass bowl of vanilla ice cream and topped with whipped cream. The result is a sort of graham-based chocolate chip cookie sundae. We practically licked the bowl.