Elizabeth Keyser photo

A lobster roll and fries from Osetra

In the lobster roll wars, count me in the Connecticut camp. On Cape Cod and Martha's Vineyard, they often serve pre-made New England–style lobster salad right from the refrigerator in cold, gummy buns — usually with a large proportion of flavorless tofu-textured claw. Lobster meat here, on the other hand, is made to order and drenched in warm butter and served on a roll — what's not to love?

This has sent me to several local establishments, where in true Fairfield County let's-dance-while-lobsters-die style, I sample lobster rolls and debate the merits of the second–most important component of the lobster roll, the bun.

At Osetra Oyster Bar and Fish House (124 S. Washington St., Norwalk, (203) 354-4488, www.osetrasono.com) I drink Cava and indulge in a lobster roll full of glistening tail and knuckle meat on a butter-soaked brioche roll ($22). I savor the chewy-tender texture of the lobster and hint-of-the-sea flavor. And although I like brioche roll, I find it's too much roll for the lobster. I pick chunks of lobster from the bun.

At Blue Point Bar and Grill, (2415 Main St., Stratford, (203) 375-2583), the lobster roll ($17) comes with a ramekin of melted butter. The scent of butter and the sight of warm lobster meat prove the theory that taste is 99 percent smell, and the saying that we eat with our eyes. This roll contains a lot of lobster meat on the traditional hot-dog roll. The top-split bun is too mushy for my taste, but advocates argue that its innocuous texture and flavor holds the butter and allows the lobster to shine. As I drizzle butter, the debate doesn't matter. Lobster is always a treat.

Black Rock Oyster Bar (348 Black Rock Tpke., Fairfield, (203) 576-6657, www.blackrockoysterbar.com) poaches their lobster in butter and white wine and serves it on a charred roll that has the ideal amount of body and softness ($19). This is a tasty roll.

The least expensive way to enjoy lobster is at home. Live lobsters are selling for about $9.95 a pound. I recently bought a 1.8-pounder and, using two soft buns from Billy's Bakery (1885 Black Rock Tpke., Fairfield, (203) 337-5349, www.billysbakery.com), created two decadent rolls. I felt bad plunging the lobster to its death, but I regained my cold-heartedness as I tossed the cooked meat into homemade mayonnaise, lobster tomalley (the green stuff), minced celery and scallions. After all, the New England-style lobster roll has its place – freshly and carefully prepared and served at room temperature. If you're squeamish, buy shelled lobster meat. Be advised the price per pound is high, and you'll get a lot of claw.