Eating

Billy's Bakery

1885 Black Rock Tnpk.
Fairfield, CT
(203) 337-5349
www.billysbakery.com

With a product line as recession-proof as bread, you'd think no one at Billy's Bakery in Fairfield would be worried about the current economy. But, it turns out someone is: the customers." They keep asking if we're okay," reports owner Billy Hollis. "I tell them, you keep coming in and I'll keep baking." That should add a sigh or two of relief to those who typically greet the aroma of Hollis' handmade, hearth-baked artisan breads and European-inspired pastries and desserts. He opened Billy's in 2000 to provide the area with the kind of long-fermented breads you could find freshly prepared only down in New York, like pumpernickel, rye and miche, an extra-crusty loaf that you can only get on the weekend. "People buy it whole and just rip it up," says Hollis. However, when Billy's moved to the larger space that is their current location, they added pies, cakes and pastries to the mix. And as regular customers, many of whom are European transplants, asked for specific items, those items have been added as well. "The word 'no' isn't one I allow to be used," Hollis explains. "We know many of our customers by name and start making their favorite things when we see them approaching." Hollis has also set his sights on courting the local bagel trade, with a dozen or so types boiled and baked onsite. And Billy's deli section features Boar's Head meats and one thing that most of his competitors can't: "The hardest thing about getting a good sandwich is getting it on good bread," Hollis says.